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BASED UPON SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLES, INCLUDING THE SELF-VARYING SHOULD' "^ '^ 
CONNECTION WITH THE DIVISION OF THE BREAST-MEASURE. 



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' -/ ? TABLE WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS | S^ 

STYLES OF GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS. , ' ■ "^ 



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CHICAGO: 
Published by Meyer & Brother, 

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«Paramount-cutter 






A SYSTEM. FOR CUTTING GARMENTS, 

* BASED UPON * 

Scientific Principles, including the self-varying Shoulder, in connection with the Division 

of the Breast-Measure. 






CHAS. J. STONE, 

CHICAGO, ILL 



Illustrated by Twelve Plates of Finely Engraved Diagrams, and One Proportion Table 

with full Instructions for Drafting the various Styles 

of Gentlemen's Garments. 



CHICAGO: 

Published iiv Mevkr & Brother, 
lo8 Washington Street, 

5. B. COR. CLARK. 




COI'VRIGHTEI) Bv 

CHAS. J. STONE, 

ISST. 

4LI, RKlllTS RF.8KBVED. 




«^P R E FAC E.^^ 



n- N placing this work before the Tailoring fraternity I am actuated by a desire 



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„.^ to assist others. Should I be successful in accomplishing this, I shall feel 

amply rewarded for my labor. The principles here laid down are the result of years of 

Ak practical experience and with the most satisfactory results. The Diagrams illustrating 

the principles set forth have been drawn by myself and engraved under my personal 

i^- supervision with the utmost care and arc calculated to demonstrate accurate instructions, 
1 
Y made so plain that any one who will give this system a careful study will find the entire 

work one of the most reliable on the subject that has ever been offered to the trade. While 

every page of this book is the result of my own reflection and the experience of many years at 

the Cutting Board, it is also proper to state that I have consulted with many of our Finest 

Artists, both in this country and Europe, in order that the present work might embrace the 

modern and most approved methods on Garment Cutting. The work commences with the 

production of properly fitting and correctly balanced garments for the normal figure. A 

master knowledge of the business is acquired by tirst qualifying ourselves in the knowledge 

of ]iroducing a Fit for a normal shape, and in the next place to change correctly from the 

regular to fit and conform to the various changes as we meet them in every day practice, 

this I clearly illustrate in my Self Varying Shoulder Measure. 

In conclusion, let all those who intend to study and practice these new principles 

lay aside all prejudice and follow out the instructions as herein given, and in so doing, 

you will find that complete success will follo-w and you will become a hearty indorser of 

this valuable work. 

THE AUTHOR. 



BLOCK PATTERNS, AND WHAT ARE THEY GOOD FOR. 

At the present age the Block Pattern is widely advertised as the only method of produc- 
ing stylish looking and good fitting garments, but such is not the case. You will find no 
successful Cutter using Block Patterns, as he will produce his own Draft. It is only Cutters 
that have failed to produce a good fit, and in disgust over his failure he has caught the bait 
laid out for him and bought a set of Model Blocks, instead of learning how to produce 
them himself, and after going to the expense of getting them he is no better off than before. 
He does not know how to use them ; it is all guess work. The patterns are either too small 
or too ^arsfe, too lontr or too short, and the results are no better than before. Now, 
understand me right. . I am not adverse to the use of patterns, providing they are proportion- 
ate and the Cutter understands how to use them. But where will you find such patterns, as 
most of them are produced by inexperienced men that never cut a coat for a customer in their 
life, never held the position as Cutter and know no more about the science and art of cutting 
garments than a salesman or book-keeper in a tailoring establishment would. How can such 
a man prodicce proportionate Block Patterns ? Nevertheless, they are the parties that are 
advocating the use of such patterns, and the more Cutters they can convert the more 
money it is in their own pocket. In my opinion it takes a practical Tailor and Cutter 
with many years of experience and hard study at the Cutting Board, where he has the oppor- 
tunity of seeing his pattern on the customer in his daily practice. Such a man I consider to 
be capable of producing a Model Block. But where do you find such a man cutting pat- 
terns and putting them on the market for sale? Now in the next place, a poor Cutter does 
not know how to use them and a good Cutter has no use for them, as it takes more time to 
hunt up the Block, copy it on the Drafting paper and lay it aside again, than it takes to 
draft a pattern. I believe in a proportionate system, that I can lay down the proportion 
and then apply the measure for the disproportions. In this way I produce my own Blocks 



and know what they contain, and need not rely on anybody's patterns. Besides, all this 
I can carry in my head and need not carry a trunk full of patterns and running the risk of 
having them destroyed by fire or any other accident, in which* case I would be put at a dis- 
advantage to cease cutting until I could secure another set of patterns, which would be a loss 
both to mjself and to my employer. 1 believe in a Cutter being able to produce his 
own pattern instead of relying on others to do it for him. The principals laid down in 
the Paramount Cutter, as illustrated in Diagrams .. 3 and 4, gives the true proportions, and 
in Diagrams 6 and 7 it shows you clearly how to alter for the disproportions, and in Dia- 
gram ,3 (The Table of Proportions) I give all the measures . that are in a proportionate 
pattern. In studying this work you will find that it comprises all the practical points that 
both the proportionate and the actual measurment systems contain. 




EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 1. 

I now invite your careful attention to the principles which govern Coat Cutting. In 
order to make this as plain as possible I have designed Diagram i, showing the Neck 
and Shoulders and locating the Shoulder point. This point is looked upon by most cut- 
ters as the key to the whole Coat Cutting, and I must say that I never saw any system 
that located this point to any certainty. In my younger days I paid out hundreds of 
dollars to the most successful cutters for instructions on the shoulder point and they 
always gave it to me about right, but there was a good deal of guess work about it for 
different shapes and I never discovered the shoulder point until a few years ago, when 
in company with a young doctor friend of mine I tended a lecture (or clinic) on 
anatomy, and in the professor's lecture to the students on the human skeleton explaining 
every part of the body I concluded that I had at last found the shoulder point, and when 
I came home I put it into practice and found it to be correct. I will now explain this 
point. The round ring where all lines meet is the centre of the body, but as you will 
observe by looking at any well built man you will find that his head is not on the centre 
of the body, but one twenty-fourth of the breast forward, locating the centre o^ neck 
where the star is; the neck is one-third of breast, from x to x, making it a circle of one- 
sixth; trom i to 2 is '^ of breast, and from i to 3 is ].4 of breast. Now, as the neck 
gorge wants to follow the shirt collar it must be cut down in front as represented. 
This will clearly show you how to get the shoulder point and you can rely on it every 
time. The shoulder point will always be the same for all shapes, as a No. 15 collar will fit 
that size neck no matter what kind of a shoulder the man has, high or low. The neck gorge 
must be the same size from x to x, as a man's neck is. See Diagram 6 for long and short 
necks, and Diagram 7 for very erect and very stoop shoulder, regulated by the self-varying 

shoulder. 

<3 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 2. 



HOW TO DRAFT A FROCK COAT. 

First square lines A and B, then from O to C is ]{, on the square on divisions of fourths 
From O to D is }4, from D to E is .,',, square out Hnes C, D and E. From O to F is length 
of waist, from O to I is hal/ of breast, square down the line at I. From i to 2 on breast line 
is I, from 2 to 3 is ]/^, square up lines 2 and 3, from O to j is i. Draw slanting line from 
2 through J, then draw slanting line from C to I. Shape top of back as represented, raising 
back at J 5/s of an inch; make width of back as represented making it the centre between 
lines 3 and 5 at line C, place shoulder seam on back wherever style calls for. From D to 4 
is i^ ; place corner of stjuare at P slanting the arm up to D and square down for side body 
seam; make width of back from F to G i of breast or whatever style calls for; from G to H 
is ,',, also take out /, between side body and fore part at N. Make side body one seam 
longer than the back at H; from I to K on slanting line 6 is ,',, from i to L is 2 inches; sweep 
from L to I by D, sweep from H to R by K, from R to M is .,", ; draw front centre line from 
I through L to M, this will cut a front for a D. B. P. A. Frock. For a Cut-away Coat, or S. B. 
Albert add one inch extra, making it in all, over measure 3 inches. Now cut out back and 
place J on back, on point K on fore part, letting line 5 run parallel with line 6, so that point 
X and I will meet, then shape neck gorge as represented, then mark off back on shoulder like 
dotted line, then shape armscye as represented and add to rounding on shoulder over dotted 
line as shown, and cut shoulder 3/g of an inch smaller than the back, as the shoulder must be 
stretched that much, //ore (0 cut the lappel is very easy. Draw two straight lines and shape 
as represented, making the width whatever style calls for. How to draft the collar is shown 
very plain in Diagram A below. Anybody will understand it by looking at the Diagram. 

'7 



REMARKS ON THE COAT DRAFT. 

This Draft as laid down in Diag. 2, will cut a proportionate coat, or what is called a Block 
Pattern. The sizes from 32 to 40 being proportionate the points at N and at H G remain the 
same, add to the front whatever is needed for the waist measure, allowing 2 inches over the 
measure at breast, waist and hip. This will cut a Prince Albert front. For a Cut-away add i 
inch more, making it in all 3 inches over the breast measure. See Diagram 5 for the explan- 
ation on the waist measure. 



REMARKS 0.\ THE DRESS COAT. 

Add to the front of a Dress Coat from i to L 1 3^ inches, and at waist i "% over the 
measure, as the lappels only have to meet and button with a link button. At the second 
button from below; take out ^4 ^^ ^" '"^^'' "^ore at N, so as to make it close fitting at the 
waist. Make the lappel not over i 3 g inches wide at the waist seam, as it only wants to be 
wide enough to allow a button-hole to go in at this point. 



P. S. — For other remarks on Dress Coat see general remarks on coats. 






18 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM OF No. 3. 



HOW TO CUT A SKIRT. 



Draw straight line A, then place side body and forepart as shown in Diagram. Drop 
from G to H ,'., of the upper hip measure and shape top of skirt as shown in the Diagram, 
dropping down J inch at O, then draw line B, by placing the straight-edge parallel with the 
side body from O to C is \ of the length of the waist of coat from C to D, is ,',; of the hip 
measure, this will give the correct spring to skirt, as if a man takes a large hip measure he 
requires a large spring, if a small hip measure he takes a small spring, etc. — for proportion 
the hip measure should be 1 inch more than the breast measure. No. i shows the style of a 
P. A. skirt. No. 2 shows the cut-away skirt, and No. 3 shows how to cut a dress coat skirt; 
the dress coat skirt must be cut down }, inch more at E, making it ^\, and \ inch from straight 
line A, to top of skirt at E, from E to F, is .', the distance from E to O. Make the width of 
the skirt at bottom .', or the same as from E to F; shape as shown in Diagram. Make skirt .V 
inch wider than the forepart for fullness over hip. 



HOW IT) CUT THE SLEEVE. 



Square line A B from O to i is ,V, from O to 2 is ], from 2 to 3 is .,\ ; square lines i, 2 
and 3, then draw slanting line (5) from i to 4, making it .1, line 6 is half way between i and 
4, square line 6 up and down by line 5, 8 is half way between line 5 and the star, from i to 
7, is ^\ ; draw a line from 7 through 8, sweep by star from 4 to i ; dotted line showing the 
sweep, then shape as represented, square down from 4, hollowing inside of sleeve to suit the 
shape of sleeve desired. 



COMMENTS ON THE SLEEVE. 

The distance from O to 3 must be the same as from C to E on the coat draft; make the 
distance from i to 4, one size less than the breast, taking \ on the division on 35 for a 36 coat, 
if an extra narrow sleeve be desired, reduce the distance from i to 4, 2 sizes, but never vary on 
the distance from O to 2 and 3 as that must in all cases be the same as the coat. When the 
sleeve is cut out, lay the under sleeve on the armscye and cut under sleeve the same shape 
as the bottom of the armscye. There can be no rule laid out for the inside seam of the 
sleeve as all the fine trade will place the inside seam in the centre of sleeve and cutting the 
sleeve quite crooked; where the medium and cheaper trade wants the sleeve cut straightcr 
and the inside seam placed about one inch under the arm, so any cutter must use his own 
judgment in this matter. 






EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM NO. 4. 



HOW TO DRAFT A SACK COAT. 

The draft of the Sack Coat is very plain, the top part being the same as the Frock Coat. 
First square lines A and B, then go down ', — .1 and ..\, square these lines then go forward \ 
of the brest measure and square down this line. From front line at S to front of armscye is | 
of breast width of armscye is J. Draw up these two lines, then draw a line from D to centre 
of Back and one line from centre of back to front of armscye to F ^ top of neck. Hollow 
centre of back at waist from i to X .1 inch from i to 2 is .', of breast. Square down frorli 2 
then shape back as shown in Diagram. From 2 to 3 is ,'„ of the hip measure, E is I of breast 
measure from D. Draw a line from E through 3, this will give the correct spring, sweep from 
1 to 4, by C, from 4 to 5 is .,\^ of Breast, then add at chest from 8 to 9 two inches. Draw 
line from D through 9 and 5 to 7, this will give the centre line. Now add for lap on a S. B 
Sack, one inch from 9 to 10, line 10 will make a straight front sack coat, corners rounded off. 
For an over coat add 2^4 inches from centre line 9 to 11; always get your centre line first, as 
that will just meet in front, then shape your front to any style desired, sweep from 6 to 7 by D 
for length of coat in front; Shape side seam as shown in Diagram, taking out i! of an inch at 
top of side seam, cut back out and place F i, on C J, on top of each other letting the 2 bal- 
ance lines meet, then shape neck gorge and armscye as shown in Diagram, marking off back 
on shoulder like dotted line, then add \ inch over the rounding of shoulder, coming down to 
dotted line as shown in Diagram. This will cut a proportionate coat, or Block Pattern; for fat 
man, change in front as shown in Diagram 5, adding on to front and leaving the blck remain 
as it is. For other changes see Diagrams 6^ and 7, and the self varying shoulder measure. 
To cut an over coat by the under coat measure add two sizes, as it takes a 38 overcoat 

to go over a 36 under coat. 

25 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 5. 

HOW TO CUT A COAT FOR A CORPULENT MAN. 

Diagram 5 represents the fat man's coat, 44 breast and 46 waist, by adding two inches to 
breast and sweep up from A, then go out }, of waist measure and add two inches, then draw 
Hne down from A , this will make the chest hollow, and a coat front cannot be cut in this shape. 
So add all that is needed from A to B making a straight front line, then cut out under arm from 
D to C, the amount added to front less ] of an inch. Clear out front of armscye the same 
amount taken out under arm, also cut off lower shoulder point the same amount. This is the 
only way to cut a fat man's coat, and get it in proper shape. A sack coat is cut the same way, 
also the vest. There are very few cutters that can cut a fat man's coat, the reason being that 
they have an idea that the fat man is built like a lean man, only larger; but this is not the case, 
as the fat man will in most cases take a 40 back, in both length and breadth. And will require 
a 44 front, and measure 42 breast and waist. If you will follow my instructions in Diagrams 
6 and 7, you will see my way of cutting the Corpulent Coat, by the aid of the self-varying 
shoulder measure. 



29 



HOW TO TAKE A MEASURE. 

TO MEASURE FOR A COAT, 

First determine the full length of waist, and full length of coat and mark with chalk, then 
start measuring, take upper shoulder measure from top of neck (socket bone) around under 
arm and up to the neck again; then take the lower shoulder measure from centre of back op- 
posite sleeve seam around arm and back to same point; next measure length of waist and full 
length of coat, then measure the width of back, then length of sleeve from under arm to hand 
coming down on hand the length desired for sleeve; this, the sleeve length, must be taken 
with the scjuare; next measure around the armscye and call off the width at hand desired, 
then measure around the breast, and around the waist, and around top part of hip, where the 
waist seam of frock coat will come, and around the most prominent part of hip. This com- 
pletes the measure of all kinds of coats. 

TO MEASURE FOR A VEST, 

First take the length of roll from the socket bone to where the vest is intended to roll, then 
the full length of the vest, and the length from the socket bone to the hip, for the length of 
hip, then breast and waist measure. In cutting a single vest, you can take the shoulder meas- 
ures same as on the coat. All these measures are taken medium close excepting the upper 
and lower shoulder measure, which is taken snug. 

TO MEASURE FOR TROUSERS, 

First take the length from waist band to knee and to bottom on the outside, then take the in- 
side length, then the waist and then the most prominent part of hip, so thigh, knee, and bot- 
tom. In fat man's pants take an extra measure for the hight of waist in front, also an extra 
measure around the upper part of hip between the waist and seat measure. 

NOTES ON TAKING MEASURE. 

It is well to bear in mind that in measuring a small lean man, to measure him quite loose, 
and in measuring a stout fleshy man, to measure him quite^ snug. 

3" 



i 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 6. 



THE SELF-VARVINC, SHOULDER. 

The upper shoulder measure is taken from socket bone at O, around under arm up to 
socket bone. This measure taken snug will be for a 36 coat, 26 inches, or 2 inches more than 
-! of the breast measure. Now this is proportion, and you must cut a proportional coat from O 
to B, C and E, but if the upper shoulder measure was 28 and the breast 36, you will have a 
man with long neck and will have to raise the back from O to i, or making it the proportion 
'2 of 39 from C to I. But point B is J4 of 36 from C. Drawing the top line across to front 3. 
Now understand me right, the distance from C to B is always the same, % "^ breast measure, 
but the distance (rom B to A will be increased or decreased as the measure calls for. If you 
have a 24 upper shoulder, and 36 breast, you would have a man with a very short neck, and 
you would have to reduce the length of top of back to line 2. Making it the proportion of 33 
breast from 2 to C, but from C to B is the proportion of 36. On line A, A and X is proportion 
line; i and 3 is high neck line; 2 and 4 is a short neck; the distance from line A to line E, is 
called the depth of armscye. By looking at Diagram 13, (the Table of Proportions,) it will tell 
you how to apply the upper shoulder measure. Find your upper shoulder measure on the 
Table of Proportions, then see what breast measure and what depth of armscye you have. It 
will also give you the length of shoulder strap. This measure taken carefully and applied as 
explained, will make the coat the right height in neck every time. Be ver)- careful in 
takiner this measure, and remember it is taken snug. This measure will make the coat 
higher or lower in the neck, but it will not make any more changes, so in order to fmd 
the size of the blade, we will have to look up the lower shoulder measure in Diagram 7. 



I 



Diag. 7 




EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 7. 



THE LOWER SHOl LDER MEASURE. 

The Lower Shoulder Measure is taken from centre of back, between the shoulder, or ;, 
(of the Upper Shoulder Measure) down from O, around under arm and back to the same 
place. This measure will be one inch less than the Upper Shoulder Measure, and one inch 
more than -, of the breast; take a 25 Lower Shoulder Measure, deduct one inch, makirvg^ it 
24; half of 24 is 12, or -j of half of 36, Breast Measure, from 3 to 6 A is 12 inches, or fj of 
breast, or % of lower shoulder, less Y2 inch. Now, if a man measure 27 lower shoulder, it 
shows that your man has 5 large blade, you will have to come forward to B 6, movina the 
armscye forward, also bring your shoulder point forward and shortening the front shoulder 
strap. Now, if you get a man that takes a 23 Lower Shoulder Measure, you will have to 
come back to line C, moving the armscye back and making the blade smaller, this will also 
move the shoulder points back to line C at S. Place corner of square at corner A, 8, letting 
arm of square come down to point A, at 6, square lines both ways, this will give you the back 
line, then slide up and down on this line at 8, same as you do on breast line wt 6, this clearly 
illustrates the Lower Shoulder Measure. A, is projiortion, B shows a large blade, a straighter 
and shorter shoulder; C shows a small blade, a long shoulder strap and a crooked shoulder. 
See the proportion table for comparison of shoulder and breast measures. 



37 



PRACTICAL REMARKS ON COAT CUTTING. 

In cutting a fat man's coat, or a coat for a man that stands very erect, I have found the 
following measure very correct, ist. Measure the length of shoulder strap from the socket 
bone to bottom of armscye in front, then go down ! of the upper shoulder measure on the 
back between the shoulders, or if this is too complicated go down 53/^ inches in all sizes, and 
measure from this point over shoulder to bottom of armscye, this will give a prove measure; 
if these two measures come out too long for the front strap, lower the armscye and move down 
the side body at P, in Diagram 2, say j4 inch, in the most extreme case, then make forepart ^ 
in waist, or enough to correspond with the length of the side body. If your measure should 
call for more than ^ inch it is taken too loose, and in such a case the best thing to do is to 
stay by the system. 



^D^ 
^ 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 8. 

HOW TO CUT A VEST. 

The vest is cut the same as the coat, only making the armscye larger. The divisions 
are marked on the draft. Cut the vest the same as the coat, adding to breast 2 inches, and 
draw square line down to B. This draft is laid down 36 breast and 34 waist, 2 inches more 
around the waist then what is called proportion. When waist measure is smaller, then 2 
inches less than the breast measure, take off '4 of an inch at B, for every inch that the waist 
is less that 2 inches of the breast, and add to front at B, '4 of an inch for every inch that the 
waist gains on the breast. Take a man that measures 38 B, and 38 W, add '^ inch to front 
at B. If 38 breast, and 40 waist, add i inch at B. Cut the front same as fat man's coat, add- 
ing on to hollow of chest, and take out under arm. Shape as represented in draft. 

For a Double Breasted Vest, add to front 1 14 inch only, making centre line, then add 
all the lap you want. Use upper and lower shoulder measure on the vest, the same as on the 
coat. As all the |)oints are laid out the same as in the coat draft, you will have no trouble in 
applying the shoulder measures on the vest, the same as on the coat: Cut the vest 3 k of an 
inch lower in the neck than the coat. In cutting a vest without a collar, add Yz inch at neck 
of forepart, and for a vest with a collar, follow the back in shaping the neck, the same as on 
a coat. 

PRACTICAL REMARKS ON VEST CUITING. 

Now in my practice I cut all vests, collar or no collar, the same as shown in the diagram. 
When I want a collar on the vest, I cut the silicia collar the shape that I want the collar to be, 
and sew it on to the edge of the vest, and not press the seam open. This will cut a better 
collar than the old style. As there is no seam to show through the collar when pressing the. 
vest, however, this has nothing to do with the fit of the vest, I merely mention it as I find it 
an improvement on the old style. 

4« 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 9. 

THE INVERNESS, OR KING WILLIAM OVERCOAT. 

This is an over-garment that very few cutters know how to cut; it is an over-garment 
mostly used as a Dress Overcoat, or in other words it is worn over the Dress Coat, as it slips 
off and on very easy without " mussing" the under coat. 

It is cut almost the same as any other sack coat; first, square lines A and B, from o to i 

is ]^\ from o to 2 is ]4 ; from 2 to 3 is ^ ; from o to 4 is the natural length of waist; and to 5 

is the full length. Square lines i, 2. 3, 4 and 5; from o to X is J^ of breast measure; square 

down this line, from 7 breast line to 8 is ' ; from 8 to 9 is J/^ ; square lines 8 and 9; from o to 

K is '8. Draw line from 8 to K, from 5 to E is "^ of breast. Draw line from E to F and 

shape back as shown in diagram. Rounding the back at F, this completes the bick. From 

C to D is ,'u of the hip measure. Draw line from P through D to L this will give the spring; 

shape from G to D as shown in Diagram; from X to J is '6; sweep from 4 to V by J; from 

Y to 6 is ,'., of breast measure, making it looser around the hip than the ordinary sack coat; 

from 7 to 10 is 2 inches. Draw front centre line from X through 10 and 6, then add from 10 

to 1 1 i3'4 inches, or whatever lap is desired and shape front as shown in Diagram. Cut back 

out and place point K on J and finish shoulder the same as any other coat, only making the 

shoulder seam straight. Make width of shoulder one and one-half inch smaller than the 

ordinary coat shoulder is; shape arm-hole from R to line 3 at G, as shown in Diagram, 

and notch the back at G, make same distance from G to L as from G to E; sweep from 

L to N by X, for length of forepart in front; this will finish the Inverness. Next is the 

half cape, which is very plain. Drawing line from shoulder to H ; H is '« from 1, or 

half-way between i and 2; sweep by J for length and finish as shown in Diagram. In 

some cases the cape is made to button same as the coat in front, in such a case add to 

cape in front making it 1 inch wider than centre line. 10 and 6. The collar is cut on 

this coat the same as any other coat. 

45 



Diag. 10 




THE CAPE 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 10. 

THE CAPE, 

The shoulder cape, is at the present time worn quite extensive, over shoulders on 
the ordinary ulster coat, and made with a J'g of an inch band around the neck, with but- 
ton holes, and buttons on the under collar of coat, so that it can be buttoned on and off 
at will. It can be cut from the overcoat pattern or from the ordinary coat draft, it being 
cut one size larger that the coat in order to make it large enough to go on the top of 
the coat. It must measure around, opposite the breast line, V^ more than the breast 
measure. Take for example a 37 coat, the cape wants to be 38, half of 38 is 19, being 
the half of breast; '3 of 19 is 6'3 inches, add 6'^ to 19 making it 25'^. This the cape 
must measure to go over the arms, the heavy lines showing the cape. To draft the cape 
draw first the coat draft, then draw a line from C to D, then shape back part as shown 
in Diagram, coming through point at E, down to S, then get length of cape from o to 7 
from o to star at 2, is l^ of breast; sweep from 7 to 8, by star at 2; from A to 3 is J^ 
of breast less ^ inch, and from 5 to 4 is 'i of breast less yi inch. Cutting out from 3 
to 4 as shown in diagram, from o to B is J^ and .',, same as coat draft. Shape shoulder 
same as on the coat, coming down to 9, crossing line B, measure off same length on 
forepart to 9, as back is to 8, sweep from 9 to 10, by 5. and finish as represented and 
the cape is cut. 

REMARKS ON THE CArE. 

In cutting the shoulder cape without the cut in shoulder, the back and forepart must 
be cut on halves, so if the entire width of the cape, opposite the breast line, is 261/2 inches 
the back must be ]4 or 13'.^; inches, and the front ^ or 13':^ inches. Be very carefu 
in getting the seam to run on the centre of the arm and shoulder, and have the seam 
sewed short over the rounding of the shoulder, by taking an easy measure over the arms, 
around the circumference of the body, just below the shoulder, and adding 2 inches to the 
measure for making up, and you will find it to come out right. 

49 



Diag. 11 





EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 11. 

HOW TO CUT TROUSERS. 

The dotted line on Diagram A represents the edge of the paper, or goods if drafted 
on the cloth. First draw square line at o. Now I will draft by the following measures: 

23— 42— 32— 32— 36— 22 '4 — 18— 17!/^. 

From o to 2 is 23, and to 3 is 42, being the outside length; from 3 to i is 32, being 
the inside length. Square lines i, 2 and 3; from i to 4 is y^, (on divisions of halves on 
the square) of seat measure; from 4 to 5 is Vs, and from 4 to 6 is one-half inch. Draw 
lines 4 and 6; C is half-way between i and 5; go in the same distance from 3 to 10 as 
it is from i to C, and draw centre line, then get the width at knee, 18 inches, making 
the forepart 9 inches or yi of knee measure, going out 4^ inches (or '4 on division of 
fourths on the square.) Each way from 9, make width at bottom from A to B 8 inches; for 
• 7/^ bottom, making it wide enough at bottom to give the forepart a uniform shape all the way 
down. Draw line from 1 to 2 and from 2 to B; then draw line from A to 1 1 and from 1 1 
to 5, going in 3 8 at 5, then add 3^ from 5 for the large side, making the dress 3^ of an inch; 
from 7 to 8 is ^4 of waist measure, or 16 on division of halves on square, shape as shown in 
Diagram, and cut out forepart; from i to 5 is J^ of thigh measure, this completes the forepart. 
Then for the backpart; place forepart on paper and draw lines 3, 4 and 5, also draw up centre 
line; from A to B is ^ of hip measure; from 10 to star is '« of hip measure. Draw line from 
B to star; from i to 2 is ,',. of hip measure, shape fork as shown in Diagram; add Vz inch at 
knee, from dotted line to 6, and ]i inch from dotted line to 7, allowing i inch over the 
measure at knee for seams. Then go out at bottom even each wa)' to make up the measure, 
and one inch for seams; from C to D is 1.^4 inch. Draw line from 6 through D up to E, then 
measure from F to H and from B to E, making it ^i of the waist and i inch shajje as shown 
in Diagram, and the pants are ready. Where a man is very small around waist and has a large 
hip a cut in the back part will be necessary in order to get the pants small enough around the 
waist. 

53 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM OF No. 12. 



THE FAT MAN S TROUSERS. 

The fat man's trousers are cut the same as any others below the seat, and adding 
more to the front at waist. Make same distance from B to P, as it is from P to C, then go 
out from B to D, J/^ of waist measure, then take off l( the distance from C to D, and add 
this to B, making the extra width, % in front and ', in the side, then add from C to E, 
l4 the distance from C to D. Drop the fork % inch at S, add to back part from H to I, 
same as from C to D, then apply waist measure the same as in ordinary pants. From P to H 
is l4)> or sweep from F to H, by L, for height of waist behind. 

Diagram B shows the Broad Fall pants, the dotted line being the forepart, and the solid 
line showing the fall bearer and where the pocket should be, if a side pocket is wanted place 
it in the side seam, same as any other pants. The amount of buttons in the broad fall, being 
all the way from 4 to 7, as the •customer may want it. The fall bearer must be cut high 
enough to make up for the waist band. Diagram C, showing the backpart. The dotted line 
representing, the stitching for the waist band, the opening of the broad fall in the side, must be 
^ of the rise or from S to E on Diagram A. 

Diagram D. This shows the old style of the Small Fall pants, the width of the fall is 
^/i of the waist measure, and the opening is ^^ of the rise, finished with a band J's of an inch 
wide and a triangle sewed out with silk in the end. In other respects they are made like the 
broad fall pants. This style of pants is not made very often, I have only cut a few riding 
pants this style. 



57 



Diag, 13 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 





Breast 
Measure 


Upper 

Shoulder 


Lower 
Shoulder 


Depth 

of 

Arm Scyo 


Length of 

Shoulder 

Strap 






24 


18 


17 


QH 


8 







25 


1854 


17^^ 


G% 


83s 


^ 2 




26 


19^8 


183^ 


7 


834 






27 


20 


19 


-^H 


9 


From 24 tc 
mlder Meas 
ss than Pro] 




28 


20^8 


195^ 


Vi 


938 




29 


213;^ 


20 3^ 


7% 


958 




30 


22 


21 


SVs 


10 






31 


22^^ 


215/4 


8}i 


10% 





"" 


32 


23% 


22 3,4 


83/4 


1034 




d 
o 


33 


24 


23 


9 


11 




o 

P. 


34 


24^^; 


23»-8 


91/4 


11% 






35 


25^8 


24% 


9% 


11% 




9, 


3G 


26 


25 


9^ 


12 




o 


37 


265^ 


■2554 


io»/4 


12% 




IM 

CO 

a 

o 

u 


38 


273^ 


26% 


10% 


1234 




39 


28 


27 


10 '>4 


13 




40 


285^ 


27% 


10% 


13% 






41 


29 38 


28% 


llf^' 


13% 


<a 
Si 




42 


30 


29 


W/i 


14 


fe P 




43 


305^ 


29% 


iil4 


14% 


From 41 to 48 
ulder Measure 
3S than Proport] 




44 


313^ 


30% 


11% 


14«?4 




45 


32 


'31 


121^ 


15 




46 


325^ 


3154 


12% 


15% 




47 


33 38 


32 34 


12% 


1558 


03 




48 


34 


33 


13 


16 






EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM No. 13. 

THE TABLE OF PROPORTION. 

This will give the proportion of all sizes, 36 being the true proportion, and running 4 
sizes each way from 36. The shoulder measures will run shorter in most cases after coming 
past 40, showing that the depth of armscye must be less than proportion, the back not increas- 
ing in size as much as the front does. It is a daily occurence to measure a man 31 upper and 
^oyz lower shoulder measure and 45 breast. Now find 31 upper shoulder and you will find it 
to be the proportion of 43^, making the depth of armscye i i-vs. and length of shoulder strap 
I4ji. The smaller sizes below 31 are very much like the fat man's and should be cut on the 
same principle. 




61 



NOTES ON MAKING GARMENTS. 

I will first state that I am a practical Journeyman Tailor as well as a Cutter. My father 
being a tailor I was born and raised in a tailor-shop, and I pride myself of having been one of 
Mr. E. Ely's best coat makers when only a mere boy, and I have the work book yet showing 
where I have made as high as $45.00 per week making coats; so when I speak of coat-making 
I take it from real practice and not from guesswork. No matter how good a garment is cut 
it will not fit unless made up properly. 

HOW TO MAKE A COAT. 

According to the present style of cutting there need not be so much stretching done as 
formerly. Stretch the shoulder across about 3/g to ^/^ of an inch according to shape of cus- 
tomer, the armscye to be stretched in front about 3/8 only, the side body should be stretched 
a trille at the hollow of the waist to give the coat a natural curve at the waist. The amount 
of side body to be stretched cannot be to any given rule, as the cloth has something to do 
with it. Extra care should be taken in stretching soft goods, as the coat is very apt to get too 
long in the waist behind. It is always well to give the coat maker warning not to get the 
coat too long in the back; it is also a good thing to give the length of the waist to the coat 
maker. The armscye from the back arm-seam of the sleeve around the blade to the centre 
under the arm should be held in a tritle by putting in a linen thread or a stay tape. The 
blade at this portion of the body is rounded and the holding in of the back part of armscye 
conforms to the natural shape of the body, preventing the coat from drawing or wrinkling at 
the top of the side body when the arm is in motion. The under sleeve should be put in 
a tritle fulL over the side body, and the seam should not be pressed open over the side 
body, this will allow the sleeve to fall gracefully over the side body and give it length enough 
when the arm is thrown forward. The collar should be put on easy, as a short collar will 
spoil the fit of the coat. The first thing to do when a coat don't fit is to look after your 
collar, and if short take it off before altering the coat elsewhere. The skirt should be 

put on from '< to 3/j; ot an inch full to the forepart over the hip. In a P. A. Frock or 

62 



Dress Coat. The lappel should be sewed on even below the roll, as a short lappel will 
make a bad looking front. There should be a great deal of care taken in basting under 
the canvas. A good many tailors has the idea that the canvas should be tight in the breast 
of the coat, this is a very bad practice as it will never make a good front. The canvas must 
be fully as large as the goods to make a good shaped front; press your canvas in good shape 
before basting under. In padding your breast do so from the lining side and use fine cotton 
and take short stitches on the side that goes next to the goods and do not draw the stitches 
tight as it will draw up the canvas and show through the broadcloth and dress worsteds. The 
stay tape should be put on fair, never draw it in very much as a short front edge is just as bad 
as a long one; if raw edge stitch close up to the stay tape; if bound there is no need of 
having any stay in the edges as it only makes them heavy and clumsy looking. There should 
be more care taken in basting on the facing on all coats than the tailors usually do. The 
facing should not be held on too full as it will not stand press but come back when exposed to 
the damp air. In overcoats the facing is very apt to get too short as the front edge has been 
held in with the stay tape. There should be a plait laid on the forepart lining at the waist 
seam, also in the centre of back and on the skirt lining over the hips. The neck pad should 
be put on easy. It would make a book of 300 pages if I was to describe all the points in 
coat making, so I will only give a few hints in pressing. 

HOW TO PRE.SS A COAT. 

The old style of hard pressing a coat before sponging the gloss off is a mistake, as it 

will take a good deal more steam to get the gloss oft" after allowing the garment to get cold, 

therefore, hard press with a fairly hot iron and immediately follow with the sponge cloth and 

a red hot iron, and you will not only have an elegant pressed coat, but will do the pressing in 

half the time. The light weight goods and German cloths will stand very little sponging, they 

must be dry pressed. I must here explain why this mode of pressing is superior to the old 

style. Take for example the canvas breast, and sponge hard on it, and you will find that 

it all puckers up, but if you hard press it first, and then sponge it, you will have sufficient 

heat in the canvas to dry up the steam, and the canvas will not pucker. 

63 



HOW TO DRY PRESS. 

Take a piece of broad cloth and a piece of linen Holland and sew the two together, lay 
the cloth side to the garment you press; wet the linen with a sponge and press dry, and you 
will have your garment dry pressed without getting it glossed. Farmer satin or other smooth 
faced goods, will take the place of broadcloth, but the cloth is the best. 

VEST MAKING. 

On the subject of vest making there is not much to be said. So far as the putting the 
vest together, it is easy to learn; in joining it up in the sides, be sure and have the 
back and foreparts even at top under arm, also even at the neck, in putting the shoulders to- 
gether, the back should go on easy to the forepart. A good vest maker is one that is 
very neat and tasty, with some artistic skill in forming a good shape in the collar, breast 
and shoulder. The front edge should be held in very little. 

HOW TO MAKE TROUSERS. 

It does not require an extra fine sewer to be a good pantaloon maker, but he should 
have some artistic skill in shaping the legs, the pantaloons require no stretching before sewing 
them up; put them together as they are notched and then press them in shape, never glue the 
bottoms with rubber tissue, as it will spoil the bottom after one weeks wear, and you will have 
trouble with them. In very li.ght weight goods, a strip of canvas cut on the bias should be 
put under the turn up at bottom; in joining the pants up, the seam should be stretched about 
Yi inch on the back part in fork, to make the pants easy in stride. 






»f« j»i« 



64 



ADVICE TO YOUNG CUTTERS. 

Young cutters should not allow themselves to become involved in the mechanical repe- 
tition of producing and reproducing the same thing from day to day. The art of cutting is 
nothing more nor less than to please the customer, and in so doing, your enployer is also 
pleased, and you will have the reputation of being a good cutter. The position as a cutter, 
naturally brings one in contact with all classes of people, and a cutter never should allow him- 
self to argue with a customer on any subject. It requires lots of attention from the cutter to 
the customer, as most customers have a weakness for attention, and if attended to in a genteel 
and polite manner, (not dudish or foppish), the customer will have less fault to find with the fit 
of the clothes, as well as the price paid for them. There is nothing to be lost by being civil 
and polite to everybody, but everything to be gained, even though you do not care for the 
customers trade. When a boy, I heard a remark from a tailor to a customer who was 
abusing him most shamefully about a coat, the customer finally asked the tailor, "Why don't 
you get mad? I think I have insulted you enough. " The tailor answered, "No, you have not 
insulted me." 'Well, how is that?" the customer remarked. "Well, you see, Mr. Brown," the 
tailor replied, "A gentleman would not insult me, and one that is not a gentleman cannot, 
as I take no notice of him." Now, whenever a customer has acted ugly, I have always re- 
membered this remark, and it has done me lots of good. To be a successful cutter, one 
must study human nature; study etiquette and how to be graceful, never allow yourself to 
get excited; never allow yourself to insult anybody in your business, and don't allow any- 
body to scare you by telling you that they have got "a h — 1 of a fit;" it may not be half 
as bad as the customer makes it. A cutter should avoid the use of tobacco in all its forms, 
never smoke in the store, and avoid intoxicating beverages, hold your breath when in front of 
a customer, he don't like the smell of whisky, onions, limburger cheese, etc., he may be very 
fond of all these things himself, but he don't like the smell of it from anyone else. A cutter 
is considered an artist, and is a gentleman, and if you don't think anything of yourself, how 
can you expect anybody else to think anything of you. So a successful cutter must be a gentle- 
man in every respect, as well as being a good cutter. The two combined makes an A i cutter 
and such a man can always secure a good position and good pay. 

6s 






PRICE LIST. 

Full Instruction in Garment Cutting, including this Book, - - - jSioo.oo 

Coat System alone, ....... ^ 50.00 

Vest System alone, ---..... 25.00 

Pants System alone, -__.-... 25.00 

Half Price to Cutters wanting to change their system. 
The Paramount Cutter alone, ....... 10.00 

Private Consultation in Cutting . . _ . . from $5.00 to $20.00 

Instructions given in English, German and the Scandinavian Languages. 

As I am employed during the day I give instructions evenings only. 

CHAS. J. STONE, 

CUTTER FOR JNO. O'CONNELL, Merchant Tailor, 

COK. MADISON AND FIFTH AVENUE, CHICAGO, ILL 






^~^ 



66 



iWEYER & Brother, 

PUBLISHERS, 
PRINTERS AND BOOKSELLERS, 

108 WASHINGTON ST., 

A'. E. for. o/ cliirl: v., CHICAGO. 



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